CHAPTER I.

Nyangwé. - The Headman's Harem. - Syde Mezrui is a Fraud. - A Slow Set. - The Markets. - The Weaker Sex. - Their Lordly Masters. - Difficulty in obtaining Canoes. - Native Opinion of the White Man. - As others see us. - An anti-Slavery Lecture. - A clear-headed Man of Business. - An old Impostor. - No Guides. - Fighting on the Road. - Ulegga. - The Lualaba and the Nile. - Lake Sankorra. - Tipo-tipo. - Crossing the Lualaba. - A Fever Den. - Bad Quarters. - Fishing-weir Bridges. - Russûna. - A Brush with the Natives. - Blood-Money. - A Check upon Looting. - Russûna's Wives. - Not Bashful but Inquisitive. - A State Visit. - Russûna's private Village. - The Cares of a Mother-in-law

CHAPTER II.

Tipo-tipo's Camp. - Kasongo visits us in State. - The Ceremony. - Kasongo's ready Assistance. - I become a Gunsmith, Bone-setter, and Soap-boiler. - Kasongo at Home. - Sankorra Traders. - Am forbidden to proceed. - Reasons for not using Force. - I take another Route. - Warua Guides. - Export of Slaves from Manyuéma. - Their Disposal. - Cause of Increase of Slave-holding. - Ants as a Delicacy. - Mode of trapping them. - A lazy Leader. - Kifuma Hospitality. - A desirable Residence. - Carved Door-posts. - A Rifle is stolen. - Fear of Consequences. - Thankfulness and Gratitude. - Leaving my " Guide " to his own Devices I strike out a new Course. - My Men will not follow. - I will not return. - Their Scruples are overcome. - Attack on the Caravan. - Fists versus Archery. - Peace. - Kasengé. - Hundreds flock to see me feed. - Kwarumba

CHAPTER III.

My Goat is stolen. - The Natives become hostile. - We are fired upon. - Preparing for the worst. - An Exchange of Shots. - Wounding an important Personage. - A Parley. - Negotiations broken off. - Renewal of the Fighting. - Allowed to depart in Peace. - More Treachery. - At it again. - Storming a Village. - The Inhabitants bolt. - My brave Army. - Fort Dinah. - Barricades. - Prisoners of War. - We capture an Angel of Peace. - She makes it. - Leaving Fort Dinah. - An Explanation of my Intentions. - The Cause of the Attack. - Convivial Mourning. - Painted Faces. - My Guide's Craftiness. - Dried up. - Green Water as Refreshment. - My Guide meets his Mother and forsakes me. - Reception of a Headman. - Another queer Guide. - He also bolts. - Salt-making. - A March in a Marsh

CHAPTER IV.

Jumah Merikani. - Coal. - A Portuguese Trader. - His Followers. - Kasongo's Chief Wife. - José Antonio Alvez. - His History. - Warned against Mata Yafa. - Lake Mohrya. - An Inquisitive Lady. - Peculiarity respecting Names. - Alvez' Habitation. - Consuming your own Smoke. - Taking Bilâl down a peg. - Well-fortified Villages. - View of Lake Mohrya. - Huts on Piles. - An amphibious Race. - No Visitors allowed. - A Spiritualistic Medium. - Skulls of old Enemies. - Urua. - Kasongo's Dominion. - Its Government. - The Social Scale amongst Warua. - Mutilation for small Offences. - Kasongo professes to be a God. - His Morals. - His Family Harem. - Unfaithful Wives. - Kasongo's Bedroom Furniture. - Rule as to Fires and Cooking. - Devil-huts and Idols. - The great Idol Priests. - The Idol's Wife. - Dress and Tattoo Marks

CHAPTER V.

A Fair Deceiver. - Marriage Ceremony. - The youthful but unblushing Bride. - A Mountain Gap. - Grand Thunderstorm. - Lake Kassali. - Not allowed to visit it. - Return of a Chief. - Medicine Men. - Their Dress. - Ventriloquism. - They impose upon the public. - Am suspected of possessing Power to dry up the Lake. - Narrow Escape of my Messengers. - Manufacture of Floating Islands. - Jumah Merikani's Kindness. - Strange Tales. - Lion Tamers. - Deadly Shade. - Sculpture. - Cave Dwellings. - Poisonous Water. - A Tribe of Lepers. - My Occupations. - Kasongo's Wives. - Their shocking Behaviour. - A Performer of Tricks. - Kasongo returns. - An Afternoon Call. - His Appearance. - His Band plays me home. - Their excruciating Performance. - They will not " Move on. " - My Anxiety to do so

CHAPTER VI.

A Horde of Ruffians. - A thorough Blackguard. - A King amongst Beggars. - Wives and Families visit me. - Mutilated Men. - Kasongo's Vanity. - His Message to Her Majesty. - He takes me for a Ghost. - No Guides or Escort obtainable. - Abandonment of my fondest Hope. - Honest Alvez. - He lies like Truth. - Plotting. - The Levée. - Warned and armed. - The Ceremony. - Salaams of the Chiefs. - Biting the Dust. - Speeches. - Deceit. - Sleeping with Deceased Wives. - Obliged to build Kasongo's House. - Cruelty of Portuguese Slave-traders. - Delays. - Desertion. - Jumah Merikani sends Deserters a Warning. - Funeral Rites of a Chief. - Wives buried alive with him. - Blood shed over his Grave. - Kasongo's harsh Rule. - His demoniacal Frenzies. - Fire in Camp. - My Servant's good conduct. - Delicate Attention of Mrs. Kasongo

CHAPTER VII.

Making " Medicine " against Fire. - An elaborate Operation. - Kasongo's importunate begging. - Disgraceful Conduct of Alvez' people. - No Mercy for the Weak. - Cringing to the Strong. - Jumah Merikani's Generosity. - The "Friend Stream." - Strange Trees. - My Men mistake Pombé for Water. - Swamps and Bogs. - Many Slips. - " Sloughs of Despond. " - Enormous Ant-hills. - A Monarch dreaded by his People. - Surpassing his Predecessors in Cruelty. - The Biter bit. - A welcome Present. - Playing with Firearms. - I frighten a Chief out of his Village. - Alvez' Tactics. - A new Arrival. - Endeavours to obtain Allies. - Driven to Desperation I determine to march alone. - Result of Firmness

CHAPTER VIII.

Another Fire. - " Medicine " a Delusion. - Havoc and Desolation. - Coimbra's Captures. - Unmerciful treatment of Women. - He calls himself a Christian. - Misery and Loss of life. - Abuse of the Portuguese Flag. - Alvez shares the Flesh and Blood. - The Lovoi. - Limit of Oil-palms. - Composition of the Caravan. - Fire again. - Fortification of Msoa. - Mshiri. - "A very bad Man. " - His power. - His Followers. - Trade in Slaves increasing. - Its Result. - Fate of the Women Slaves. - Probable Export. - Gods of War. - Excessive Heat. - Our coldest Night. - Alvez loses Slaves. - His Lamentations. - Am taken for a Devil. - Mournful Procession of Slaves. - A weird Grove. - Mata Yafa. - Vivisection practised on a Woman. - Rebellion of his Sister-wife. - Marshes. - A sumptuous Meal. - Burning a Roadway. - Lagoons. - Bee-keeping

CHAPTER IX.

Ulûnda. - Born in Slavery. - Elephant Ragout. - Alvez dodges me. - Compelled to follow him. - The Walunda. - A dirty Race. - Curious Fare. - Returning Thanks. - Remarkably small Huts. - I drop into a Pitfall. - My Rifle gives Satisfaction. - Zebra. - A cold Dip. - Ice in August. - Lovalé People pushing eastward. - Cowardly Demeanour of Bihé men. - Kafundango. - Escape of a Slave Gang. - Their cruel Treatment. - Maternal Affection. - Savage Manners of Lovalé Men. - Extortion. - Rudeness of Dress. - Clever Iron Workers. - Arrow-heads and Hatchets. - Beef once again : but not for me. - Numerous Fetishes. - The Zambési and Kassabé. - Interlocking of their Systems. - Available for Traffic. - Mode of fishing. - Katendé in State. - Recollection of Livingstone. - The Legend of Lake Dilolo

CHAPTER X.

João the White Trader. - Putrid Fish. - Dishonesty of the Noble Savage. - Festive Natives. - Scanty Apparel. - Elaborate Hair-dressing. - Cataracts. - Sha Kélembé. - Alvez proves fickle. - Exchanging a Wife for a Cow. - An attempted Burglary. - Baffled. - The Thief's Complaint. - Unparalleled Audacity. - Revengeful Threats. - Smelting Furnace. - High-flavoured Provisions. - Sambo chaffs a Chief. - Forest. - A well-dressed Caravan. - Wanted, a Dairy-maid. - Friendliness of Mona Pého. - A well-ventilated Suit of Clothes. - " Sham Devils. " - Blacksmiths. - Am believed to be a Lunatic. - Alvez' Reputation amongst Traders. - I sell my Shirts for Food. - A Village eaten up by a Serpent. - An Eclipse. - Kanyumba's Civility. - Alvez tries to rob the Starving. - Natural Hats. - False Rumours of Fighting on the Road

CHAPTER XI.

The Kwanza. - Its Navigation. - Neat Villages. - Convivial Gathering. - A Head of Hair. - Cattle Plague. - The Kokéma. - Filthy Villages. - A lively Chase. - Reception of Alvez. - Payment of his Porters. - Soap and Onions. - My Ragged Crew. - Alvez cheats me at parting. - A Man in Tears. - An Archery Meeting. - A Tornado. - The Town of Kagnombé. - Its Size. - Kagnombé's Officials. - A Secretary unable to write. - Mshiri's Men. - Their Journeys from Coast to Coast. - Kagnombé's Levée. - My Seat of Honour. - Kagnombé's best Clothes. -His full Style and Title. - Strong Drink. - Fetish place. - Skulls. - Graves. - His Guards. - His Hat. - Senhor Gonçalves. - His House. - Breakfast. - He tells me his History. - His Kindness and Hospitality. - The Influence of Men of his Type

CHAPTER XII.

João's Settlement. - His official Position. - Openly trading in Slaves. - Bad Specimen of the White Man. - A Fetish Man. - Fortune telling. - Charms. - Infallible Cures. - Arms for Kasongo. - Probable Result. - Belmont. - Miserable Work. - Buffalo Herd. - Opposition by Bihé People. - Civility of the Chiefs. - The Kutato. - An extraordinary River. - Dangerous Crossing. - Subterranean Streams. - Lungi. - Suspected of the Evil Eye. - A Fetish Man declares me free. - Untrustworthy Postmen. - Making and mending Clothes. - A Portuguese in Pawn. - A Festival. - Drink and Debauchery. - A superior Chief. - Rheumatism. - A Glimpse of Paradise. - Visit to King Kongo. - Housed and fed by the Prime Minister's Wife. - The King's own Hut. - His Dress. - Strongly guarded. - A drunken Conference. - Pounding Corn. - My Beard excites Curiosity. - Hungry Times. - Caterpillars a Delicacy

CHAPTER XIII.

My dispirited Crew. - Native Bridges. - Bad Weather. - Secure Dwellings. - Breakdown of my Men. - A Man missing. - Fallen out by the Roadside. - A fearful Night. - Searching for the Straggler. - Delay dangerous. - The Straggler arrives. - Past Recovery. - His Death and Burial. - Locusts. - The Slave-trade on the Coast. - Mode of Embarkation. - Failing Strength of my Carriers. - I throw away Tent, Boat, Bed, &c. - A Rush for the Coast. - Our highest Camp. - Gay Umbrellas. - A Mulatto Settlement. - Cascades. - Numerous up Caravans. - Their Trade. - No Food left. - Search for a Camp. - Dead beat. - A tedious March. - Skeletons of Slavers' Victims. - Starvation and Exhaustion. - The Sea. - Leaving the worn-out Men behind. - The final Effort. - Scurvy attacks me. - Help. - A Good Samaritan. - A Haven of Rest

CHAPTER XIV.

Peace and plenty. - Katombéla. - My Illness increases. - Carried to Benguella. - Medical Advice and good Nursing. - My Recovery. - Arrival of my Stragglers. - Death of another Man. - Bombay's Objectionable Behaviour. - An original Character. - Benguella. - Its tumbledown Fort. - Convict Soldiers. - Their Loyalty. - My Men indulge too freely. - Arrival at Loanda. - Reception by the Consul. - Courtesy of the Governor. - An amusing Incident. - My Men object to their Quarters. - Preparing to send them Home. - Liberal Offers. - Purchase of a Schooner. - Fitting her out. - Visit to Kisembo. - No Charts obtainable. - A Windfall. - Departure of my Crew in the Frances Cameron. - Leaving my Loanda Friends. - Homeward-bound. - Meeting old Faces. - Safe at Home

CHAPTER XV.

Formation of the Continent. - River Basins. - Deserts. - The Watersheds. - Zambési. - Kongo. - Physical Geography. - Useghara Mountains. - Fertile Soil. - The Lugerengeri Valley. - The Kungwa Hills. - Gum-copal. - Timber Trees. - Fauna. - Snakes. - The Mukondokwa Valley. - Lake Ugombo. - Mpwapwa. - Barren Soil. - The Marenga Mkali. - Ugogo. - A dried-up Country. - Ziwas. - Kanyenyé. - Usekhé. - Granite. - Khoko. - Vale of Mdaburu. - The " Fiery Field." - The Mabunguru. - Jiwé la Singa. - Urguru. - Unyanyembé. - A cultivated Country. - Ugunda. - Ugara. - The Kawendi Mountains. - Uvinza

CHAPTER XVI.

The Lake-system of Central Africa. - A Flaw in some ancient Upheaval. - Correct Position of the Tanganyika. - Kawélé. - Ras Kungwé. - Kabogo Island. - Ruguvu. - Coal. - Rapid Encroachment of the Lake upon its Shores. - Formation of Cliffs. - Remains of an Inland Sea. - Makakomo Islands. - Gradual disappearance. - Constant Additions from Mainland. - Ras Musungi. - Loose Masses of Granite. - Weather-worn Cliffs. - Fantastic Forms. - Numerous Landslips. - Black Beaches. - The West of Tanganyika. - A new Geographical Region. - The Rugumba. - Black Speculum Ore. - The Kilimachio Hills. - Affluents of the Lualaba. - Underground Dwellings. - The Lualaba and Kongo. - Changes in River Channels. - Bee Culture. - A Barren Waste. - A Fertile Flat

CHAPTER XVII.

Africa's Future. - Slaves and other Articles of commerce. - Trade Routes. - Export of Indiarubber increasing. - Internal Slave-trade. - Ivory Supply. - Products. - Sugar-canes. - Cotton. - Oil-palm. - Coffee. - Tobacco. - Sesamum. - Castor-oil. - The Mpafu-tree. - Nutmegs. - Pepper. - Timber. - Rice. - Wheat. - Kaffir Corn. - Indian Corn. - Indiarubber. - Copal. - Hemp. - Ivory. - Hides. - Beeswax. - Iron. - Coal. - Copper. - Gold. - Silver. - Cinnabar. - Mission Work. - Commercial Enterprise. - Establishment of Depôts. - Scheme for advancing into the Interior. - Light Railways. - Steamers on Rivers. - Probable Results. - Shall Slavery continue ? - How to stamp it out and make Africa free

APPENDIX I.